Travel by Mule

How Cracker Cracked my Helmet Not my Brain

I got the space man’s view of the rodeo. There I was way high up in the air above my mule Cracker. There he was way down below me bucking his guts out. Then gravity took over and I re-entered the earth head first like a faulty Russian rocket. CRACK! Landed right on my skull….which was snugged up in my helmet.

The wreckage: That’s Cracker’s saddle and my Troxel helmet – split in to 3 pieces.
This could have… Continue reading

How I Met Young Captain America

Cracker meets young Captain America – aka Pierce Robinson (outside Mosheim, TN)

The mules and I are in Quincy, Illinois today preparing to cross the Mississippi River in the next day or two. I’m sorting photos. This photo I took a few weeks ago caught my eye. I thought you’d enjoy knowing how it came to be.

I was holding Cracker in a Tennessee pasture and looked up and there stood young Captain America. Dressed in a red and blue… Continue reading

Resting up After 62 Mule Days on the Road.

With mules, there’s no going to NAPA for OEM (Original Equine Manufacturer) parts. The only things that fixes wear and tear on mules is time. After 62 days on the road, the mules and I need to catch our breathes a spell.

Napkin may
United States of Naplkin: how far the mules and I have come. No journey should take more than a napkin to explain.

This week mules Brick, Cracker and I hit the 750 mile mark of our journey from… Continue reading

Welcome to

Howdy. This is where I (Bernie Harberts) post about my travels by mule, boat and bike.

Mules Cracker and Brick on my recently completed 2,200 mile ramble from NC to ID ramble (Sue Waddell photo)

To join me for an authentic mule voyage, check out the Lost Sea Expedition, the Rocky Mountain PBS series about my 14 month mule voyage across America.

Stream the series on:

My wife Julia’s take on things at Considering

Happy Adventuring!


The Final Miles Across Illinois

Mule Brick by pond we spotted from the road – and ended up spending the night next to. (Outside Quincy, IL)

Good night from the banks of the Mississippi River. Well almost the banks of Big Muddy. Tonight mules Brick and Cracker and I are camped 10 miles East of Quincy, IL. Thanks Todd and Julie Curry for putting us up (and sending over those sloppy Joes with all the trimmings!)

From here, the plan is to cross Ol’ Man… Continue reading

She Wants to Catch a Turtle

There she stood with the fishing rod and the shoulder tattoo (outside Pana, IL)

I rode the mules over the hill and there she stood on the bridge holding a fishing rod. She and the star tattoos on her shoulders and a man and a boy drowning small worms on big hooks in a shallow creek.
I asked, “are you catching anything?”
She said, “he caught one” and pointed to her son.
Then she said, “I really want to catch… Continue reading

What Happens to the Animals When the River Floods: Patty Henken Explains

When the Missouri River floods, all that stands between Meredosia, Illinois and the river is a mound of dirt and a pile of prayers. That and the round-the-clock efforts of everyone from sand bag-filling inmates to town employees and community members.

meredosia illinois

The river and Meredosia as seen from the bridge over the Illinois river. So far, the levee has held. Nearby towns have fared worse. The levees have softened and ruptured, flooding towns and forcing residents and their pets to… Continue reading

Cruisin' the Fireball Freeway

This week I’m pondering all the Fireball whisky bottles the mules and I are encountering on Indiana’s roadsides.

fireball, fireball whisky, fireball whisky bottle

Some of the Fireball whisky bottles I’ve come across on the roads between Sulpher and Monroe City, Indiana.

Bernie Harberts, mule, trail ride, ohio river, bridge

Mules Cracker, Brick and me: on the road looking for adventure and roadside trash. (Tracy Smallwood photo)

Traveling America’s back roads by mule lets me absorb life at 3 miles per hour. How the bottom of a hill is cooler than the top. How… Continue reading

Mule Chow Gift

Bernie Harberts, mule, trail ride, gas pump

An unexpected treat for the mules. A bag of corn left at my tent. (Hodgenville, Ky)

I was camped at Big Spring Cemetery wondering what the mules would eat for supper. It was going to be lentils and watercress from a nearby spring for me. For them it looked like it was going to just be grass. Grain is just too heavy to carry.

I strolled over to the spring and picked a mess of cress. When I got back… Continue reading

Welcome to the Land of Lincoln

Bernie Harberts, mule, trail ride, storm cloud, rain, hail, prairie
Welcome to Illinois. Is this the real land of Lincoln?

Yee ha! The mule and I have arrived in Illinois.
Illinois is the third state that claims Abraham Lincoln. He was born in Kentucky but didn’t live there long enough to get on too many road signs. He spent time in Indiana where he got a mention on the state line. But the Illinois Lincoln Marketing Board was smart enough to step up and just claim him. They branded… Continue reading

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