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No Fridge, One Burner, Two Weeks: Cooking Aboard a Small Sailboat at Shackleford Banks

My wrist caught the bowl of oatmeal on Grit‘s galley table. It did a steamy Charlie Brown loop and landed next to the centerboard case with a plop, spraying oatmeal across the settee.

“Damn I miss the dogs,” I thought. “Lucky and Diggity would have licked this up in seconds.”

Instead I spooned the oatmeal back into my bowl and chewed carefully, avoiding the grittiest bits. Welcome to Oatmeal à la Grit.

Here’s how my wife Julia and… Continue reading →

Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Have the Last Word

It was our last day observing the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks and my wife Julia and I went out to see what they were up to.

Julia observing a band of wild ponies from the top of a sand dune
Julia walking on the beach at Shackleford Banks with solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored offshore
Julia walking back to Grit after visiting the wild ponies. Grit is barely visible anchored in the dark blue water off the beach.
Julia paddling a kayak back to sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks
Julia paddling back to Grit. Grit was our home base for the time we spent… Continue reading →

Jail to Sail: New Interview With Sven Yrvind on my Travel Grit Podcast

Oh man, I’m excited. I just posted an interview with one of my all-time sailing heroes, Sven Yrvind, on my Travel Grit podcast. Short version: Sven was beaten by his teachers, locked up for desertion, built a sailboat in his mother’s basement, and sailed off to sailing legend. Long version: the wonderful 1-hour, 19-minute interview that I had with Sven on Travel Grit.

Click on over to listen to Sven explain how he got his boat out of his mom’s… Continue reading →

Best Long Riding and Horse Travel Books: 8 Picks from a Long Rider with 6,000 Miles in the Saddle

I’ve ridden 6,000 miles in the saddle and spent over 1,000 nights on the road with horses and mules, and people often ask me what I recommend they read about Long Riding and long distance saddle travel. A Long Ride is a continuous, unsupported saddle journey of over 1,000 miles. Here are my eight favorites.

Long Riding books including favorites recommended by Long Rider Bernie Harberts

Any of these books would make a great gift for the horse, mule, donkey, travel or adventure lover in your life.

Our Tiny Library Up… Continue reading →

What is the Long Riders’ Guild

Twenty years ago, I owned a mule named Woody. Woody was cantankerous. I wanted to ride him across North Carolina – and maybe a whole lot farther. Too bad nobody could tell me how to ride a mule 300 miles. This is the post I wish I’d read all those years ago.

Woody and me trying to figure out how to ride across North Carolina. I had no idea what we were doing but figured feeding him apples was a… Continue reading →

25-Foot Sailboat: Are We Closer at Sea or on Land?

My wife Julia and I have spent the last two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks on our 25-foot sailboat Grit. We came here to learn more about how wild horses interact when they’re largely left alone by humans.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. She’s a 1992 Nimble 24. When not out cruising, she lives in our barn.
Julia observing two wild horses on Shackleford Banks
Sunrise viewed through the port light over the berth aboard sailboat Grit
The rising sun as viewed through the port over my berth

The morning before… Continue reading →

Life in 8 Feet: A Couple Lives Aboard a Small Sailboat

The last thing I do at night on our sailboat Grit before I drop off to sleep is say, “Goodnight Chickadee,” reach over the table that sits on top of the centerboard case and kiss my wife Julia goodnight. “Goodnight, Bubbie,” she’ll say, and we’ll tell each other we love each other, then snuggle down into our berths. She sleeps on the port berth. I’m on the starboard side. My toes will knock against the bottom of the berth, where… Continue reading →

Wild Horses, Rough Seas and Lessons from Shackleford Banks

This week Julia and I joined Lynne Carnes on her Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast to talk about our time aboard Grit with the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Lynne interviewed us directly from the Grit‘s wood-lined cabin as were anchored 100 feet of a sandbar. You can hear the energy crackling in our voices.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts and Julia recording the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast aboard sailboat Grit off Shackleford Banks
Click on the player to listen to Julia’s and my interview on the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast

Thanks, Lynne, for having us on!


Creative Spirits… Continue reading →

How to Provision a Sailboat for Two Weeks: Why the Sausages Worked but the Wine Didn’t

The homemade cured sausages that survived Lucky and Diggity were a hit. The bottle of red wine that had a cork instead of a cap was a bust. Here is a list of the provisions that Julia and I took on our 2-week long trip aboard our sailboat Grit to study the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Here’s what worked, what didn’t and why every sailboat should carry a corkscrew.

Wild horses Shackleford Banks stallion and yearling filly foraging in sand dunes North Carolina
The wild horses of Shackleford Banks. Here, a yearling filly… Continue reading →

Sketching Grit: How We Fit a Life Aboard a Nimble 24

How do 2 people live in 8 feet? I’m writing a post about that right now. The working title is Life in 8 Feet — it’s about the two weeks Julia and I spent living aboard our sailboat Grit, our Nimble 24 sailboat. Here’s a sneak peek at part of a sketch I drew to illustrate the piece.

Hand-drawn layout sketch of Nimble 24 yawl Grit showing bow, forepeak berth, galley, port and starboard settees, companionway, foot well, and stern — signed April 1 2026, anchored Shackleford Banks NC
Detail from my hand-drawn sketch of Grit

Note: You can now read the article Life in 8 Feet here.


Julia’s… Continue reading →

The Rock, the Vine, and a 40-Knot Gale: Anchoring at Shackleford Banks

“The single commandment of anchoring is, ‘Thou shall create scope.'” Reese Palley / flamboyant art dealer, author, sailor, environmentalist and businessman

The best time to write a post about anchoring is on an anchored boat during storm conditions. The second best time is after the winds start dropping but your body and mind are still buzzing from the pounding, lurching, jerking, and groans in the night. That’s where I am right now. Julia, our sailboat Grit, and I recently… Continue reading →

Someone to Stand Watch: What the Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Still Know

My wife Julia and I had been anchored off Shackleford Banks on our sailboat Grit for nearly a week, studying the wild ponies that call the 8-mile-long uninhabited island home.

Sailboat Grit, solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' 1992 Nimble 24, anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Our sailboat Grit anchored yesterday off Shackleford Banks. Grit is a 1992 Nimble 24. When she’s not out exploring shoal waters (she only draws 1.5 feet of water) she lives in our hay barn

The goal was a slow, unhurried look at the bands — to really understand their social… Continue reading →

How Not to Pack a Canvas Tent: A Shackleford Banks Lesson

This week I found myself in a similar predicament to the time my wife Julia said we should carry our kayaks on the deck of Grit, our Nimble 24 sailboat. I said no, we’d be fine towing them. That turned into a debacle.

Click to watch my enthusiastic but not-quite-technically-correct tent packing tips

My advice to Julia this time involved how to pack up the wall tent we’d pitched on Shackleford Banks. In this video I will instruct you… Continue reading →

The Day Grit Went Adrift, Ge Fouled and Sideswiped off Shackleford Banks

Yesterday I wrote about how Grit fouled her anchor, went adrift and got sideswiped off Shackleford Banks. That night, after the day’s adventure settled down, Julia and I sat across from each other at Grit’s cabin table and recorded what went down.

Grit, a Nimble 24, anchored off Shackleford Banks across from the Bight.
Grit anchored off the east end of Shackleford Banks after her eventful day. The anchorage is surrounded by sand bars and requires careful navigation and anchoring.
Julia playing cards below deck aboard sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Julia in Grit‘s cabin after dealing a hand of Gin… Continue reading →

Adrift, Fouled and Sideswiped off Shackleford Banks


Six days after dropping the anchor off Shackleford Banks, and two days after the 40-knot gale beat us up, it was time to move Grit to the Bight on the eastern end of the island. The Bight is the large anchorage next to Cape Lookout lighthouse. The eastern end of Shackleford Islands is flatter, with more windswept dunes than the more forested, higher western end we’d been anchored off for nearly a week.

Dawn view from the bow of sailboat Grit, a Nimble 24 anchored off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
Dawn aboard Grit off Shackleford… Continue reading →