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Rolling Out of Artesia with an 83-Year-Old and His VW Covered Wagon

Published December 22, 2004

I, Bernie Harberts, did not use generative AI to write or illustrate this article. Spell check and grammar check, yes. AI, no.

“I’d sure like to ride out of town with you” Vernon Laman told me and that Sunday morning we met.

For years Vernon drove a big rig as an over-the-road trucker. “I always wanted to build me a little wagon” the 83-year old Vernon told me. “So I bought an old Volkswagen and built this wagon”. The old Bug cost him twenty bucks. The rims are painted yellow. The chrome hubcaps say “VW”.

Long Rider Bernie Harberts meets Vernon Laman standing beside his covered wagon built on a Volkswagen Bug frame, Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — Vernon Laman. The red plank at the top of the photo is the seat of his covered wagon.

He puts a weathered hand on the red wooden seat. “I used to ride in this seat as a kid on my dad’s buggy. I built the wagon around it.”

The old buggy seat Vernon Laman rode as a child, now the centerpiece of his homemade covered wagon, Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — The old buggy seat.

Vernon has two mules, Snow and Smokey. They’re both three years old. “I started putting the harness on them when they were about a year old” he says. He puts on their collars, fastens the hames, and drapes the black harnesses across their backs.

Vernon Laman's covered wagon built on a Volkswagen Bug frame with yellow rims and VW chrome hubcaps, Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — The only prairie schooner with VW hubcaps.

Then out of Artesia we roll, Woody and Magnolia in the lead, Vernon and his VW Bug prairie schooner out behind.

We ride down Highway 82 five miles and break for Sonic burgers and Dr. Pepper delivered by Idella, Vernon’s wife.

Then the rest of the afternoon I hear “Gee!” and “Haw!” behind me and Vernon’s hands rarely move. Sometimes it’s “Step up Smokey!” when he sees the dark mule’s not pulling his fair share.

“How do you know when Smokey’s not pulling as hard as Snow?” I ask.

“When both trees are parallel to the wagon, both mules are pulling the same. If Smokey’s not pulling as hard as Snow, his tree is crooked.”

Then I hear “Step up Smokey!” again and the soft pop of leather reins flapping on the dark mule’s back. When I look, the trees are straight. Old Smoke’s doing his fair share.

Vernon Laman's weathered hands resting in his lap at the end of a day driving mules near Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — Hands at day’s end.

Then we pull into a gravel driveway and I hear “Whoa” and the wagon stops. Vernon’s hands fall into his lap and the day is done.

We’ve stopped for the day at Vernon’s sons. Vernon and his son load up the wagon onto a home built trailer.

Vernon Laman preparing the forward compartment of his homemade trailer to load his mules near Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — Vernon preparing the forward compartment where the mules ride.

Vernon Laman leading mule Smokey into the trailer compartment near Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — Vernon leading Smokey into the compartment.

Mule Snow waiting to load into the trailer beside Vernon Laman's covered wagon near Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — Snow waiting to join Smokey on the trailer.

Friends and family helping Vernon Laman roll his covered wagon onto a homemade trailer near Artesia, New Mexico, 2005 — The final thing to load: friends and family help Vernon roll his covered wagon onto his trailer.

Vernon drives home and I pitch my tipi behind his son’s house. It’s been a wonderful day but as I lay on the hard desert ground, I can only imagine what lies ahead of me – the long, steep climb to Mayhill, where I will cross the spine of the Rocky Mountains. It’s late December and the forecast calls for snow.

More about riding Woody and Maggie from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

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