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adventure travel

50 Years Ago Today: The Great American Horse Race Began — 92 Riders, 1,966 Miles, Pure Adventure

Fifty years ago today, Memorial Day, Tom Sites and 91 other riders showed up to the starting line of the Great American Horse Race, the longest organized horse race ever held. The starting gun went off, horses walked, trotted and cantered across the starting line, and 100 days and 1,966 miles later, 54 of them arrived at the finish line in Sacramento, California.

Tom Sites, Vietnam veteran and finisher of the 1976 Great American Horse Race
Tom Sites

Tom showed up with his horse Jose Dante, a $15 saddle, no crew, no trailer… Continue reading →

The $1 Horse That Walked 5,000 Miles

Some people save up for years before a big trip. Sea G Rhydr spent one dollar. One buck bought her an outlaw gelding named Jesse James, and that horse carried her 5,000 miles across America. No sponsor. No support vehicle. Just a woman, a cheap horse, and a lot of road.

Seapia image of Sea G Rhydr who rode 5,000 miles across America
Sea G Rhydr

I sat down with Sea on the Travel Grit podcast to hear how that ride actually went — the breakdowns, the kindness of strangers, the moments… Continue reading →

Filipe Masetti Leite Rode a Horse 16,000 Miles. This is What he Learned.

“I’d never ridden more than 3 kilometers.” That’s what author, filmmaker, and Long Rider Filipe Masetti told me, a fellow Long Rider, after riding 16,000 miles across North and South America. That quote will give you hope you can do whatever you’re dreaming of doing.

Long Rider Filipe Masetti Leite, who rode 16,000 miles on horseback from Calgary, Canada to Brazil
Long Rider Filipe Masetti Leite

Update: Filipe and Clara Racing on The Amazing Race Canada

Since this interview, Filipe has taken a break from Long Riding. He and his wife Clara are now racing on… Continue reading →

Launching Grit: Storms Delay the Start of Our Shackleford Banks Voyage

Thunder storms, downpours and a tornado. Whew. Today was the day Julia and I were going to launch our sailboat Grit in the Neuse River and head toward Shackleford Banks. Only that didn’t happen on account of the, er, bumpy weather.

Hand-drawn card by artist Laura Turgeon depicting solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts and Julia's homestead life and sailboat Grit, marking Oriental, North Carolina as the launch point for the Shackleford Banks voyage
Artist and friend Laura Turgeon drew this card for us. It perfectly captures the energy of our life and upcoming trip, from rescue border collies Rescue and Diggity taking cosmic leaps to horses, mules and birds all over. Oh,… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks: Sailing to the Island of the Wild Horses

As promised last week in my get-the-boat-ready-to-float list, here’s a hand-drawn (as opposed to AI-drawn) map of where Julia and I are heading for our mid-March trip. We’re sailing to Shackleford Banks with our sailboat Grit to observe the wild horses that live there.

Hand-drawn color pencil map of Shackleford Banks by Bernie Harberts
Shackleford Banks (Color pencil on printer paper / by Bernie Harberts)

About the Map

Are you sick of looking at AI-generated art? Tired of seeing AI-generated videos of AI-people chipping AI-horses and baby AI-generated eagles… Continue reading →

First Unsupported Horse Across Australia: Gin & Fable

Gin Szgola and wild brumby Fable celebrate completing first unsupported coast-to-coast horse crossing of southern Australia
Gin Szagola and Fable reach the Indian Ocean after crossing southern Australia—4,400 kilometers with no chase vehicle, just a wild brumby she trained herself and volunteer-placed supply caches across the Nullarbor. (Photo Colleen & Bridie O’Brien of the Victorian Brumby Association)

Big news this morning. Gin Szgola and her wild brumby Fable have just arrived at the Indian Ocean. Julia and I spent a lovely day hanging with a Gin just over a year ago when she floated the idea… Continue reading →

Are you Too Old to Go?

A guy I’ll call Harold wrote me recently. He said (and I’m paraphrasing), “I’m seventy-one years old. I’ve always wanted to take a long saddle trip like yours. Am I too old to go?” This reminded me of a quote by Saul Bellow. “When someone asks for advice, they’re looking for an accomplice.” It also reminded me of my dad, Art Harberts.

Art Harberts on his 87th birthday with a bottle of Jack Daniel's Black Label
My dad Art Harberts on his 87th birthday. He never was much of a cake man so I… Continue reading →

Sunday Sleep Medicine

Sleepy cement Indian statue with heavy eyelids outside school on outskirts of Meredosia, Illinois.
Sleepy the Cement Indian. Spotted outside a school on the outskirts of Meredosia, IL, where I crossed the Illinois River with the mules. This heavy eye lid look is what happens when you don’t get enough sleep. Or maybe it’s just the high school art department’s paint job…

Howdy Pilgrim. Feeling sorta sleepy this Sunday morning? Don’t sweat it.

Here’s some ancient Indian advice. Crawl back in to your tent bed and get some more nods. That’s what I… Continue reading →

Miles or Steps? Measure of a Journey.

Folks often ask me, “how many miles can you and the mules travel in a day?”.

I tell them 25 and they’re not impressed.

Bernie Harberts and mule Cracker preparing to head up road with Brick outside South Gifford, Missouri on cross-country mule ride
Let the day – and miles – begin. Cracker and I get ready to head up the road with Brick. We travel 15 to 25 miles per day with 20 miles being an average day’s run. I walk a lot to save wear and tear on the mules’ backs. (outside South Gifford, MO)

25 miles. Big… Continue reading →

Road Kill Fish

Catfish hung on stop signs. Catfish flung on the shoulder. A dead chub on the highway. Lately mules Brick and Cracker and I have come across dead fish where you wouldn’t expect them – along the side of the road. I put them in to a post card-like arrangement I though you’d enjoy.

Four roadkill fish including two catfish and a roach found roadside across three states during Bernie Harberts cross-country mule ride.
4 dead fish by the road in 3 states – 2 catfish and a roach. I just labeled the fish with where I found them.

Right now… Continue reading →

Joe’s Joke

The old blue tractor scared my mules when it passed me on the gravel road. Right behind it, the black and white dog in hot pursuit. The next hill over, the tractor was parked by the road and a man climbed out of the cab. He had a grin as big as a round bale and so did I. That’s how I met Joe Stoll and his dog.

Joe Stoll standing with his blue tractor and black and white dog on Missouri gravel road during Bernie Harberts mule ride.
Joe, his tractor and the dog.

He spoke first.

Joe: “I was… Continue reading →

Grain Bin Drowning Danger

How is a grain bin like an above ground pool? You can drown in both.

Mules Brick and Cracker tied to Illinois grain bin during lunch break on cross-country mule ride.
I’m sure the mules are thinking, “you tied us to a drowning danger?”

Last week the mules and I took a lunch break in the shade of an Illinois grain bin. I had the usual sardines and dry ramen noodles washed down with jug water. Then I strolled around the grain bin and discovered how it might kill me.

Illinois grain bin with drowning danger warning sign discovered during Bernie Harberts mule ride lunch break.
I’ve always considered grain bins friendly… Continue reading →

How I Met Young Captain America

Young boy dressed as Captain America meeting mule Cracker in pasture outside Mosheim, Tennessee
Cracker meets young Captain America – aka Pierce Robinson (outside Mosheim, TN)

The mules and I are in Quincy, Illinois today preparing to cross the Mississippi River in the next day or two. I’m sorting photos. This photo I took a few weeks ago caught my eye. I thought you’d enjoy knowing how it came to be.

I was holding Cracker in a Tennessee pasture and looked up and there stood young Captain America. Dressed in a red and blue… Continue reading →

Welcome to RiverEarth.com

Howdy. This is where I (Bernie Harberts) post about my travels by mule, boat and bike.

Mules Cracker and Brick on Bernie Harberts 2200 mile cross-country mule ramble from North Carolina to Idaho.
Mules Cracker and Brick on my recently completed 2,200 mile ramble from NC to ID ramble (Sue Waddell photo)

To join me for an authentic mule voyage, check out the Lost Sea Expedition, the Rocky Mountain PBS series about my 14 month mule voyage across America.

Stream the series on:

My wife Julia’s take on things at Considering Animals.com.

Happy Adventuring!

Bernie