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Oklahoma

Abandoned Homesteads: Modern Fossils of the Great Plains


Waiting
Outside Hildreth, Nebraska

Traveling 2000 miles across the Great Plains by mule wagon, I’ve filmed, interviewed and photographed Plains folk and their marine fossils.

I’ve also collected photos of another type of more modern fossil; the contents of abandoned homesteads.

Continue reading →

Four Miles Down, Four Barrels Up: Oklahoma Stripper Wells

We’re in oil country now, riding through Oklahoma. There’s clanking in the bushes where the crickets buzz at noon.

If you take a closer look, you’ll find an oil well.

Woody the mule inspecting a stripper oil well in Oklahoma, 2004
Woody inspects your basic “stripper” well.

They call them “stripper wells” around here. They get four or five barrels up per day. Some more, some less.

But most of them make that clanking noise.

I take Woody and Maggie closer for a look.

Woody the mule and Magnolia the pony checking out an Oklahoma oil well pump jack, 2004
Woody and Maggie checking out what appears… Continue reading →

Far Enough West the Light Looks Different

Woody, Magnolia and I have walked far enough west that the light looks different from back in North Carolina, where we started our journey. Back there, the light felt thick, moist and blue. Here, it feels dry, thin and dusty. The shadows, too.

Here are three photos I snapped while riding along the sidewalk of a town so small I don’t even remember its name.

Bernie Harberts riding Woody the mule up a sidewalk in a small Oklahoma town, 2004
Riding Woody up the sidewalk.
Shadow of Woody the mule pondering a weed on a sidewalk in Oklahoma, 2004
Shadow ponders weed.
Shadow of Woody the mule eating a shadow weed on a sidewalk in Oklahoma, 2004
Shadow mule eats shadow weed.

The Fine Grey Lines: Mule Travel on Oklahoma Dirt Roads

The DeLorme road map of Oklahoma looks like a sheet of graph paper.

Woody and Magnolia ready for early morning dirt road navigation in Wetumka, Oklahoma, 2004
Woody and Maggie ready for some early morning dirt road navigation, Wetumka, OK.

The roads are set out on a grid. The fat lines are your major interstates and highways. I-40’s the big blue line. Highway 9 is red and slim.

The dirt roads are the fine grey lines.

I like to follow them because they cut right through the heart of Sooner Country. That means few… Continue reading →

“The Jumbos Bite”: Rick’s Rodent Ranch in Lexington, Oklahoma

“You’ve got different rat sizes,” Rick explains as he gently lifts a young rat onto his lap.

Rick Pariseau holding a feeder rat at Rick's Rodent Ranch in Lexington, Oklahoma, 2004
Is that a fuzzy or a hopper? Rick Pariseau shows me one of the rats he raises at Rick’s Rodent Ranch.

“You’ve got your fuzzies, hoppers, smalls, mediums, larges.” The rat scrabbles across his leg. “Oh, you’ve got your jumbos too. But they bite.”

Rick got into the feeder rat business with “four rats a friend gave me.” Now he has over 1,200… Continue reading →

Bring Detergent: A Mule Rider Crosses Into Oklahoma

The sign in front of Arkoma’s school says “Ice Cream Social” followed by a date and the words “Bring detergent.”

We’ve made Oklahoma.

Maggie grazing on the state line.

It’s late in the day for mule travel. Two hours before sunset, you’d better have a place to stay or you’ll be driving your tent pegs by starlight.

I continue down Highway 9A, out of town. An hour later, I find lodging with Jason and Stephanie Shelton.

Jason’s a fellow traveller.… Continue reading →