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Sand Hills

Email From the Sand Hills

“You never saw so many cowboys drinking so much beer in a hurry.” So writes my wife Julia to a friend of ours about attending a ranch rodeo in the Sand Hills of Nebraska.

Julia with mule Cracker in Hyannis, Nebraska during a visit to Bernie Harberts in the Sand Hills
Julia and Cracker. She visited mules Cracker and Brick and me recently in Hyannis, Nebraska. She has since returned home.

Read Julia’s “Email From the Sand Hills” about the ranch rodeo, Sand Hills cowboying and how we almost got flattened by a… Continue reading →

Bridge and Another Man’s Horse

Recently I picked up a stray. Crossing an old wood bridge, I heard an extra pair of clip clops on the wood decking. I looked back. And saw a horse.

Bernie Harberts crossing old wood bridge with mules Brick and Cracker plus stray horse following behind in Nebraska Sand Hills
Me, Cracker, Brick, and……what the hell….another horse?

Turns out the horse had slipped through an open gate and fallen in to line behind us. I walked the mules back across the bridge, toward where the horse had come from, hoping to lure the horse back home.

The horse followed obediently.… Continue reading →

Ranch Rodeo Saturday Night

Until last week, I’d never heard of a ranch rodeo. I’d been to plenty of regular rodeos. But what was a ranch rodeo?

Cowboy surveying bucking stock horses before saddle bronc event at Nebraska Sand Hills ranch rodeo near Hyannis
A cowboy surveys the bucking stock, the horses used in the saddle bronc event. Each cowboy knows which horse he’ll ride before he mounts it. This give him time to plan his strategy. Or get damn hell nervous….

Ranch rodeo is a team event based on skills a working cowboy would need. Each team has 4 members.… Continue reading →

Trouble in a Leather Sack

Let me state for the record that I am not a cowboy. I can not throw a rope. I can not brand a cow. I don’t own a 10 gallon hat. I do know that “trouble in a leather sack” means “cow” in the Sand Hills. Seth Adam told me so.

Cowboy Doug Adam roping calf for doctoring on Nebraska Sand Hills cattle ranch north of Hyannis, Nebraska
Roped: A real cowboy, Doug Adam, ropes a calf that needs doctoring. Yes, it’s not so pleasant for the calf. But the doctoring goes quickly and minutes after the… Continue reading →

Serendipity Lodging

It was time to see my wife Julia. The mules and I have been on the road for 4 months, traveling from North Carolina toward Idaho.

Bernie Harberts crossing Middle Loup River between Norway and Seneca, Nebraska during cross-country mule ride
Crossing the Middle Loup River between Norway and Seneca, Nebraska.

Julia and I decided the Sand Hills of Nebraska would be a great place for her to fly out and meet me. She booked a plane ticket and a rental car. She didn’t click on that “Add a Room to Your Ticket” option.

She… Continue reading →

Shovel and Top Hat

The mules and I camp on a lot of people’s lawns. What to do about the manure? Out here in the Sand Hills of Nebraska, mule manure on a lawn is dispensed with a boot kick. Or, as I recently did, with an old shovel.

Bernie Harberts top hat hanging on borrowed shovel used to clean up mule manure in Nebraska Sand Hills lawn camp
Shovel and top hat. No, I don’t carry a shovel around on my pack saddle. It was loaned to me so I could clean up after my mules. That’s my collapsible canvas water bucket hanging… Continue reading →

Hyannis at Last

Three weeks ago I arrived in Plattsmouth, Nebraska. I set my sights on Hyannis, 350 miles to the west. Yesterday Brick and Cracker and strode in to the town I was aiming for.

Bernie Harberts arriving in Hyannis, Nebraska on mule Cracker with mule Brick in background after 350 mile cross-country ride
Lookin’ heroic in Hyannis: actually, I’m not striking a pose. I’m wondering how the hell Brick (background) managed to nearly rip off my horn bag within moments of arriving in town.

Hyannis is deep in the Sand Hills of Nebraska. The past week, I’ve been traveling… Continue reading →

Junk Heap Mule Browse and the Fair Ground

Today a guy asked me, “why do you like mules?” I told him, “because they eat and drink less than a horse and they’re tougher.” What I really wish I could have shown him was Cracker teasing a grass snack from between some junk tires and batteries.

Mule Cracker grazing between junk tires searching for grass during cross-country mule ride through Nebraska
Cracker snack: it’s hard to tell there’s anything worth eating in that pile of tires but Cracker, being a hearty mule….
Mule Cracker eating grass growing next to pallet of batteries and gear box oil during Nebraska cross-country mule ride
….always seems to find something worth eating. Here, a mouthful of grass… Continue reading →

Anselmo: The End of Farming

Mules Brick, Cracker and I have arrived in Anselmo and the end of farming in this part of central Nebraska.

Satellite view of Anselmo, Nebraska showing dividing line between green farmland and brown ranch land
Anselmo as seen from space: the dividing line between green (farm land) and brown (ranch land)
Downtown Anselmo, Nebraska with abandoned 1915 Peoples State Bank building on right during cross-country mule ride
Anselmo as seen from where I’m writing you. The building on the right is the old Peoples State Bank built in 1915. Now abandoned.

By “the end of farming”, no, I don’t mean they’re canceling the Husker corn crop this year. Rather, the mules… Continue reading →