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Shackleford Banks

Warwick Schiller Podcast: Wild Horses of Shackleford Banks

This spring, my wife Julia and I towed our sailboat Grit out of the barn, launched her and sailed her to Shackleford Banks, North Carolina, where we spent the next two weeks studying the wild horses that live there. We never imagined that ramble would land us on numerous podcasts, including Warwick Schiller’s Journey On podcast.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' Nimble 24 sailboat Grit rigged and ready to sail at Oriental public boat ramp, Oriental, North Carolina
Grit rigged and ready to sail. She is a Nimble 24. (Oriental public boat ramp, Oriental, NC)
Julia carrying a kayak to the water's edge near solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. That’s Julia… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks Wild Horses on Today’s Horsewoman Podcast

Earlier this spring, Julia and I spent two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks (North Carolina) studying the wild horses that call the 9-mile uninhabited island home.

Julia paddling a kayak back to sailboat Grit near Shackleford Banks with sand bars visible in the shallow water
Julia paddling a kayak back to Grit near Shackleford Banks with sand bars visible in the shallow water

While we were at Shackleford, we appeared on Rose Cushing’s podcasts Today’s Horsewoman and Today’s Horseman.

Have a listen. You can just hear the crackling energy in our voices. We were alive to everything around us.… Continue reading →

Farewell to the Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks

After two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks aboard Grit, we felt like an extension of the uninhabited island. We knew the dark blue part of the channel we needed to aim for if we didn’t want to run Grit aground as we entered the anchorage. We had seen Back Sound in a range of states, from galloping with white horse waves to reflecting the full moon’s glow. We had watched the lieutenant stallion long enough to know that when… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks: The Beach That Made Me Put the Camera Down

The first two days, my wife Julia and I had just focused on observing the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks and making sure our sailboat Grit didn’t drag anchor. The whole time, we heard a low thudding coming across the island — the sound of the Atlantic Ocean crashing on the beach a half mile from where we were anchored. The third day, we walked across the island to check out the beach.

White terns chattered overhead and plunged into… Continue reading →

The Sacred Maritime Forest of Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I had spent the afternoon observing the wild ponies on the middle part of Shackleford Banks and were following a sandy beach back to Grit, which was anchored just off the beach.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' wife Julia carrying her kayak to sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks beach
Julia carrying her kayak back to Grit, which is anchored in a narrow channel just off the beach

The tide was high and we came to a tangle of trees that had fallen across the beach, making a barrier between land and water.… Continue reading →

No Fridge, One Burner, Two Weeks: Cooking Aboard a Small Sailboat at Shackleford Banks

My wrist caught the bowl of oatmeal on Grit‘s galley table. It did a steamy Charlie Brown loop and landed next to the centerboard case with a plop, spraying oatmeal across the settee.

“Damn I miss the dogs,” I thought. “Lucky and Diggity would have licked this up in seconds.”

Instead I spooned the oatmeal back into my bowl and chewed carefully, avoiding the grittiest bits. Welcome to Oatmeal à la Grit.

Here’s how my wife Julia and… Continue reading →

Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Have the Last Word

It was our last day observing the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks and my wife Julia and I went out to see what they were up to.

Julia observing a band of wild ponies from the top of a sand dune
Julia walking on the beach at Shackleford Banks with solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored offshore
Julia walking back to Grit after visiting the wild ponies. Grit is barely visible anchored in the dark blue water off the beach.
Julia paddling a kayak back to sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks
Julia paddling back to Grit. Grit was our home base for the time we spent… Continue reading →

25-Foot Sailboat: Are We Closer at Sea or on Land?

My wife Julia and I have spent the last two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks on our 25-foot sailboat Grit. We came here to learn more about how wild horses interact when they’re largely left alone by humans.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. She’s a 1992 Nimble 24. When not out cruising, she lives in our barn.
Julia observing two wild horses on Shackleford Banks
Sunrise viewed through the port light over the berth aboard sailboat Grit
The rising sun as viewed through the port over my berth

The morning before… Continue reading →

Life in 8 Feet: A Couple Lives Aboard a Small Sailboat

The last thing I do at night on our sailboat Grit before I drop off to sleep is say, “Goodnight Chickadee,” reach over the table that sits on top of the centerboard case and kiss my wife Julia goodnight. “Goodnight, Bubbie,” she’ll say, and we’ll tell each other we love each other, then snuggle down into our berths. She sleeps on the port berth. I’m on the starboard side. My toes will knock against the bottom of the berth, where… Continue reading →

Wild Horses, Rough Seas and Lessons from Shackleford Banks

This week Julia and I joined Lynne Carnes on her Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast to talk about our time aboard Grit with the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Lynne interviewed us directly from the Grit‘s wood-lined cabin as were anchored 100 feet of a sandbar. You can hear the energy crackling in our voices.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts and Julia recording the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast aboard sailboat Grit off Shackleford Banks
Click on the player to listen to Julia’s and my interview on the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast

Thanks, Lynne, for having us on!


Creative Spirits… Continue reading →

How to Provision a Sailboat for Two Weeks: Why the Sausages Worked but the Wine Didn’t

The homemade cured sausages that survived Lucky and Diggity were a hit. The bottle of red wine that had a cork instead of a cap was a bust. Here is a list of the provisions that Julia and I took on our 2-week long trip aboard our sailboat Grit to study the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Here’s what worked, what didn’t and why every sailboat should carry a corkscrew.

Wild horses Shackleford Banks stallion and yearling filly foraging in sand dunes North Carolina
The wild horses of Shackleford Banks. Here, a yearling filly… Continue reading →

Sketching Grit: How We Fit a Life Aboard a Nimble 24

How do 2 people live in 8 feet? I’m writing a post about that right now. The working title is Life in 8 Feet — it’s about the two weeks Julia and I spent living aboard our sailboat Grit, our Nimble 24 sailboat. Here’s a sneak peek at part of a sketch I drew to illustrate the piece.

Hand-drawn layout sketch of Nimble 24 yawl Grit showing bow, forepeak berth, galley, port and starboard settees, companionway, foot well, and stern — signed April 1 2026, anchored Shackleford Banks NC
Detail from my hand-drawn sketch of Grit

Note: You can now read the article Life in 8 Feet here.


Julia’s… Continue reading →

The Rock, the Vine, and a 40-Knot Gale: Anchoring at Shackleford Banks

“The single commandment of anchoring is, ‘Thou shall create scope.'” Reese Palley / flamboyant art dealer, author, sailor, environmentalist and businessman

The best time to write a post about anchoring is on an anchored boat during storm conditions. The second best time is after the winds start dropping but your body and mind are still buzzing from the pounding, lurching, jerking, and groans in the night. That’s where I am right now. Julia, our sailboat Grit, and I recently… Continue reading →

Someone to Stand Watch: What the Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Still Know

My wife Julia and I had been anchored off Shackleford Banks on our sailboat Grit for nearly a week, studying the wild ponies that call the 8-mile-long uninhabited island home.

Sailboat Grit, solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' 1992 Nimble 24, anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Our sailboat Grit anchored yesterday off Shackleford Banks. Grit is a 1992 Nimble 24. When she’s not out exploring shoal waters (she only draws 1.5 feet of water) she lives in our hay barn

The goal was a slow, unhurried look at the bands — to really understand their social… Continue reading →

How Not to Pack a Canvas Tent: A Shackleford Banks Lesson

This week I found myself in a similar predicament to the time my wife Julia said we should carry our kayaks on the deck of Grit, our Nimble 24 sailboat. I said no, we’d be fine towing them. That turned into a debacle.

Click to watch my enthusiastic but not-quite-technically-correct tent packing tips

My advice to Julia this time involved how to pack up the wall tent we’d pitched on Shackleford Banks. In this video I will instruct you… Continue reading →