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Tasmania by $10 Bike

Why They Call It the Pieman River: A Tasmania Ferry Story

The Fatman barge crossing the Pieman River with ferry operator Blackie Stewart at the controls, Corinna, Tasmania
Early morning crossing: the “Fatman” barge crosses the Pieman River. At the controls is Blackie Stewart (Corinna, Tasmania)

It struck me as curious. How does a Tasmanian river come to be called the Pieman River? Recently, while spending some time with the crew of the “Fatman” ferry, Tasmania’s smallest, remotest punt, I found out why.

In the interview you’re about to hear, I’m hanging out with ferry operator Blackie Stewart in the Fatman’s wheelhouse. After he’s explained the punt’s workings,… Continue reading →

Bush Fever Again: Heading to Flinder’s Island, Tasmania

Bernie Harberts looking out at the water, thinking of going to sea again, Moulting Bay, St Helens, Tasmania
Thinkin’ of goin’ to sea again (Moulting Bay, St Helens, Tasmania (Joel Buckwell photo))

The rash from my recent leech bites has faded but the travel itch hasn’t. Yep, that means, as I do from time to time, I’m going “bush” again. It’s too soon to tell where I’m ending up. All I know is I’ve a hankering for the sea and am thinking of heading off to Flinders Island off the north east coast of Tasmania.

Oh, and I’ll… Continue reading →

What It Really Costs to Ride Tasmania on a $10 Bike

Fact is, it costs money to ramble around Tasmania interviewing folks about leeches and orchids and crayfish. Unlike the mysteriously financed Indiana Jones, who never broke off a good sword fight to earn a few bucks, my trips are all self-funded. If the money runs out, so does the action.

Bernie Harberts biking on a wet day south of Puzzler Mountain, Tasmania
Travel costs: even on wet days, the money meter keeps turning. (south of Puzzler Mountain, Tasmania)

When I’m not on the road, you might spot me pedaling around Oriental,… Continue reading →

Tasmanian Road Tar Art

Call this one the update from the road more repaired….

Used to be I dreamed of becoming a sophisticate – drive a fancy car and swish wine around my face while gazing at modern art I pretended to understand. I got as far as drinking the wine but went off adventuring long before I developed the taste and finances for fancy cars.

No these days, tackling the back roads of Tasmania on a bike that cost less than a six-pack… Continue reading →

Still Ramblin’ Around Bruny Island, Tasmania

Bruny Island lighthouse, Tasmania
Bruny Island lighthouse: a fine place to ramble out to. (Bruny Island, Tasmania)

I’m still ramblin’.

A few days ago I mentioned I was headin’ up the road for a few days – just to see what’s around the next Tasmanian bend. Well, I’m still out there. Should be back in a few days – unless, like my buddy Kenny and I are bad for doing, I just keep going for a spell longer.

Come to think of it, ramblin’s… Continue reading →

Gone Ramblin’ Up Tasmania’s East Coast

Ramblin' road near Catamaran, Tasmania
Ramblin’ road: a perfect road for wandering (Catamaran, Tasmania)

Ramblin’.

That’s what my buddy Kenny calls it when we take off on our mules with no destination in mind.

Which is precisely how I plan to spend the next few days. Only I’m heading out on my $10 bike instead of a mule. ‘thinking of heading up Tasmania’s East Coast for a look.

’til then, I hope 2011’s started well for you. Drop by in a few days to see… Continue reading →

Shy Albatross Following the Crayfish Boat Off Tasmania

For the past month, the Southern Ocean has been my back yard. Aboard the “Miss Carmen”, my junk shop bike and I have voyaged from Hobart, Tasmania, south to Port Davey then north to Bruny Island.

Miss Carmen crayfish boat and Bernie Harberts' $10 bike, Southport, Tasmania
Miss Carmen and my $10 bike (Southport, Tasmania)

Mornings at sea, after the day shot was finished (when the crayfish pots were put in the water), we steamed to another fishing spot. It was during these hours that the Shy albatross came to visit.… Continue reading →

A New Year’s Wish Cast Off a Crayfish Boat, Tasmania

Bernie Harberts holding a fossilized clam aboard a crayfish boat, Tasmania
In a moment, you’ll find out about the funny looking rock between my fingers.

It’s the age old tradition. You go to a foreign land. It’s New Years Eve. There’s a fountain in the town square. You throw in a piece of local currency. You make a wish. You go back to drinking champagne.

Or, if you’re like me, you don’t see the sense of throwing good money into the drink just because others are doing it.

Spoilsport.

Then there’s… Continue reading →

Crayfish Bait Skeletons: A Southern Ocean Close-Up in Tasmania

Barracouta head bait after a night on the Southern Ocean floor, stripped by crayfish and sea lice, Tasmania
The remains of the bait: a barracouta head after a night on the Southern Ocean floor. Crayfish and sea lice have stripped most of the meat from the skull.

The longer I stay in Tasmania, the farther I’ve strayed from my original objective – travel Australia’s southernmost state by horse or mule. Instead of traveling overland, I find myself drawn back to the sea. But that’s okay. It’s hard to jump aboard a crayfish boat for a stint at sea… Continue reading →

Message on a Tasmanian Beer Can Postcard

First, a damn big thank you to everyone who’s subscribed to the Postcard from Tasmania service – that’s where I send folks a real postcard, complete with genuine postmark, from Tassie. I mean really, didn’t you feel better when that Tasmanian devil card showed up in your letter box? The postman sure was amused and hell, it paid for my pint down at the southernmost pub in Australia. Made everyone’s day and I hear one even ended up on a… Continue reading →

Sounds Like a Tasmanian Crayfish

Home in Carolina, the sound that cheers me most is the sound of a mule heading up the road, wagon in tow. It was a sound I’d hoped to replicate here in Tasmania.

Instead, I’ve ended up listening to crayfish.

Deckhand Georgie holding a large crayfish aboard Miss Carmen off Port Davey, Tasmania
Georgie and the cray: Georgie works the pots aboard “Miss Carmen”. Here, he’s holding up a large cray or “dog” as they’re called. Behind him are the cliffs off Port Davey.

Yep, instead of hitting the road in an equine… Continue reading →

A Week Crayfishing in Tasmania: Reds, Brindles, and Close-Up Photos

By now you know the drill. My attempt to ride a mule around Tasmania failed because, well, mules are near impossible to find here. Still, the ten dollar bike I ended up taking off on has served me near as well as an equine companion. Better, in fact, I’d argue, when it comes to meeting crayfish.

Last time I wrote, I mentioned how I landed a berth on the crayfish boat “Miss Carmen”. On it, I ended up going to… Continue reading →

From Mule to Bike to Crayfish Boat: Setting Sail in Tasmania

Damn Skippy! The Plan’s not going as planned. The original hope had been to ride a mule across Tasmania. Silly me. I never bothered checking whether or not Tasmania had mules before I showed up.

Bugger. They didn’t. Seems Tassie’s a Mule Free Zone. But it’s not bike free. Which is exactly what I bought at the junk store. And just hit the road with that.

So last week I’m standing on the Southport dock talking with a fellow called… Continue reading →

The Ashland Family: A Tasmanian Camping Life on Cockle Creek

The Ashland family with an oar, crayfish pot, and boat at Cockle Creek, Tasmania
Meet the Ashlands: Yee ha! Nothing finer on a spring day in Tasmania than an oar, a crayfish pot and a parked boat. If you think kids these days are all hooked on cell phones and the internet, you haven’t met Melissa and Judd Ashland’s family. They’re keen!

Slowly, I’m coming to grips with the notion that I may be touring Tasmania by bike and boat instead of a horse, as I’d hoped. Like Mick Jagger sang, you don’t always… Continue reading →

South East Cape – The Farthest South You Can Go In Tasmania

South East Cape, the southernmost point in Tasmania and Australia
South East Cape, Tasmania

Recently, to get a better sense of what Tasmania’s southern coast looks like, I biked to Catamaran on the southern coast. There, I picketed my bike (you can tell I miss my mules because most people just refer to parking their bike) and hoofed it cross-country to the shore of the Southern Ocean.

Without getting all geographic on you, South East Cape is the southern-most cape in Australia. Along with Cape Horn and the Cape of… Continue reading →