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Tasmania

Tasmania by Bike: How a Stone Soup Traveler Gets Going

You know the story. Old man shows up in a village with a rock and pot to his name. Puts some water in that pot, the rock too, and pretty soon both are boiling. A villager walks up, asks the man what he’s cooking and the man replies “stone soup”.

Then the old man says the soup he’s making would be better if it had some carrots. And you know what happens next. The visitor goes home, returns with a… Continue reading →

Tasmania by the Numbers: Cycling Around Tasmania on a $10 Bike

Bernie Harberts crossing a creek on his $10 junk shop bike near Balfour, Tasmania
Tasmania creek crossing. Next time I’m hauling along a kayak (or portable bridge) so I can explore these rivers! (outside Balfour, Tasmania)

It’s official. My voyage around Tasmania on a junk shop bike is complete. I’m back in North Carolina spending some time on the farm. Still, before life in the Tarheel state drags me into another adventure, I wanted to share some last Tassie thoughts and images with you. To that extent, I’ve put together a “Tassie by the… Continue reading →

Cast Away on a Whaleboat

Crew of the gaff-rigged whaleboat Capricornia sitting on the weather side to keep the open boat upright in heavy conditions, Tasmania
Get on the high side! The crew of the heavily reefed Capricornia sit on the weather side to keep the open boat upright. Capricornia is a 30-foot gaff rigged whale boat.

Sheesh! Last time I wrote you I was waxing poetic on Tasmanian country roads. Just to show what wonderful things they lead to, the gravel road I followed lead me to a 30-foot open whaleboat, an overnight stranding that amounted to a modern day cast-away status – and a… Continue reading →

Biking Around Tasmania: One Last Ride Before Leaving

Bernie Harberts with his ten-dollar bike on a gravel road in Tasmania, set for a final ramble before heading home
Set for a final ramble

Sheesh Bucky! The ten dollar bike and I have been traveling around Tasmania for going on half a year now. Which means it’s time to think about heading home to North Carolina.

Yep, on May 28 I depart Hobart, Tasmania for the long wing home.

Still before I hit the road, I decided to take one last ramble over the hills. That means meandering over the mountain range that separates Tasmania’s west and east coasts.… Continue reading →

How to Smoke Fish Without a Refrigerator: A Bike Camper’s Guide

Fish heads skewered and smoked over campfire with gills pried open to allow smoke into the head cavity, Tasmania
Fish Smoking Tip #1: remove the gills from the fish heads and skewer each head. Be sure to pry the mouth and gills wide so plenty of smoke can enter the head cavity.

People wonder. How do you live on a bike without refrigeration? It’s as though the Big Chill is some invisible cord that tethers people to civilization.

For most things, it’s not required. Oats, vegetables and eggs don’t need cooling if consumed in a timely manner. Milk comes… Continue reading →

Five Days at Macquarie Beach: Tasmania’s Southern Ocean Shore

Bernie Harberts looking west from Macquarie Heads, Tasmania, toward the Southern Ocean
Macquarie Heads, Tasmania: Looking due West, you’re looking under Africa at South America — Puerto Madryn, Argentina, Patagonia, to be precise

In less than a month, I return to North Carolina. My half year bike voyage of Tasmania will be over.

To sear some final southern ocean images into my brain, I spent 5 days camped at Macquarie Beach, west of Strahan. Each day I walked the beach looking for something to bring home in my brain. For you, I… Continue reading →

Shonky Freewheel Fix: Bicycle Repair in Tasmania

Recently, on a steep descent outside Tunnel, Tasmania, the pedals on my bike, which should stop spinning when you stop pedaling, went into overdrive. Like an imp of satan had taken over the pedaling, the pedals took off at a blazing, ankle breaking speed.

Luckily I don’t have toe clips, those cage-like things that hold your feet to the pedals. So I just lifted my boots off the cheap plastic pedals and let them thrash around until I coasted to… Continue reading →

Why They Call It the Pieman River: A Tasmania Ferry Story

The Fatman barge crossing the Pieman River with ferry operator Blackie Stewart at the controls, Corinna, Tasmania
Early morning crossing: the “Fatman” barge crosses the Pieman River. At the controls is Blackie Stewart (Corinna, Tasmania)

It struck me as curious. How does a Tasmanian river come to be called the Pieman River? Recently, while spending some time with the crew of the “Fatman” ferry, Tasmania’s smallest, remotest punt, I found out why.

In the interview you’re about to hear, I’m hanging out with ferry operator Blackie Stewart in the Fatman’s wheelhouse. After he’s explained the punt’s workings,… Continue reading →

Driving the Fatman: Tasmania’s Smallest, Remotest Ferry

The Fatman, Tasmania's smallest, remotest ferry, crossing the Pieman River, Corinna, Tasmania
The Fatman: Tasmania’s smallest, remotest ferry

Traveling around Tasmania on my rapidly disintegrating bike, I recently had the honor of spending a few days with the crew of the “Fatman”, Tasmania’s smallest, remotest ferry. In the course of my visit, I had a chance to take a turn at the helm.

So what’s it like to drive the “Fatman”?

A lot, it turns out, like driving my ten-dollar bike. In places where you’d expect high dollar, legit parts, you’ll be… Continue reading →

How the Fatman Ferry Works (and How It Got Its Name)

Tasmania's west coast gravel road outside Balfour, Tasmania, where the road stops at the Pieman River
Tasmania’s west coast: the only thing that connects it from north to south is a small road, in many places, still gravel. (outside Balfour, Tasmania)

It’s a curious thing. Travel down Tasmania’s rugged west coast on a bike, as I did recently, and about half way down, the gravel road comes to an abrupt stop at the Pieman river. Full stop. No bridge. Some days there’s not even a safety barrier to keep cars from driving into the river.

Sort… Continue reading →

The Rest of the Story: Riding Into Strahan, Tasmania

The Fatman ferry at Corinna, Tasmania
The Fatman: the story is coming (Corinna, Tasmania)

The old pushie (push bike) and I have just rolled to a halt in Strahan, Tasmania.

The past 2 weeks on the road have yielded a bumper crop of audio footage — from interviewing a man and dog in Paradise to riding the Fatman across a river named after a cannibal. Yep, at this point that makes no sense to you. But check back shortly. A shower after 2 weeks on the… Continue reading →

Hauling Wild Apples in My Boots Through Tasmania

It happens. Biking around Tasmania on a junk shop bike, I come across stuff I’d like to take with me. But often there’s just not room.

Take the apple season. In these late summer days, wild, well, let’s call them feral, apple trees drape their bounty across the dirt road shoulders. (Quick apple lingo: “feral” means you can reach them from your bike. “Someone else’s” means you have to climb across a fence and sidle up next to an apple… Continue reading →

Sounds Like the Roaring Forties

Recently, while traveling across Flinders Island on my cast off bike, I took a break next to a sign welcoming me to the Roaring Forties. After toasting the event, I whipped out my audio recorder to capture the sound the sign was making. I bottled it up in my audio recorder and today you’ll have a listen.

The sign you’re about to hear

What you’ll hear is the wind blowing over two bolt holes on the Roaring Forties sign.… Continue reading →

Toasting the Roaring Forties With a Fly

Bernie Harberts toasting the 40th Meridian sign, Emita, Flinders Island, Tasmania
Cheers! Toasting the 40th Meridian (Emita, Flinders Island, Tasmania)

In the last update, I was on Flinders Island toasting the Roaring Forties. To be precise, I was beneath the “You are crossing the 40 South Parallel” sign lifting a jar of scotch to my lips. That’s when I heard the buzzing in the air.

What the hell was that?

It didn’t sound like an albatross, cliff or flapping sail, all the sounds I associate with this way-south part of… Continue reading →

Welcome to the Roaring Forties

Roaring Forties. The words conjure images of the salt captain braced against the ship’s helm, sparks flying from his pipe. Sails tattered. Lee shore looming, hard and horrible, under the dolphin striker stay.

Skeletal remains of a fishing boat driven ashore by high winds at Killiecrankie, Flinders Island, Tasmania
The skeletal remains of a fishing boat driven ashore by high winds (Killiecrankie, Flinders Island, Tasmania)

But just what are the Roaring Forties? Where do they lie? What do they sound like?

A few years ago, I got close to them in my sailboat Sea Bird.… Continue reading →