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Warwick Schiller Podcast: Wild Horses of Shackleford Banks

This spring, my wife Julia and I towed our sailboat Grit out of the barn, launched her and sailed her to Shackleford Banks, North Carolina, where we spent the next two weeks studying the wild horses that live there. We never imagined that ramble would land us on numerous podcasts, including Warwick Schiller’s Journey On podcast.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' Nimble 24 sailboat Grit rigged and ready to sail at Oriental public boat ramp, Oriental, North Carolina
Grit rigged and ready to sail. She is a Nimble 24. (Oriental public boat ramp, Oriental, NC)
Julia carrying a kayak to the water's edge near solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. That’s Julia… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks Wild Horses on Today’s Horsewoman Podcast

Earlier this spring, Julia and I spent two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks (North Carolina) studying the wild horses that call the 9-mile uninhabited island home.

Julia paddling a kayak back to sailboat Grit near Shackleford Banks with sand bars visible in the shallow water
Julia paddling a kayak back to Grit near Shackleford Banks with sand bars visible in the shallow water

While we were at Shackleford, we appeared on Rose Cushing’s podcasts Today’s Horsewoman and Today’s Horseman.

Have a listen. You can just hear the crackling energy in our voices. We were alive to everything around us.… Continue reading →

Farewell to the Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks

After two weeks anchored off Shackleford Banks aboard Grit, we felt like an extension of the uninhabited island. We knew the dark blue part of the channel we needed to aim for if we didn’t want to run Grit aground as we entered the anchorage. We had seen Back Sound in a range of states, from galloping with white horse waves to reflecting the full moon’s glow. We had watched the lieutenant stallion long enough to know that when… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks: The Beach That Made Me Put the Camera Down

The first two days, my wife Julia and I had just focused on observing the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks and making sure our sailboat Grit didn’t drag anchor. The whole time, we heard a low thudding coming across the island — the sound of the Atlantic Ocean crashing on the beach a half mile from where we were anchored. The third day, we walked across the island to check out the beach.

White terns chattered overhead and plunged into… Continue reading →

The Sacred Maritime Forest of Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I had spent the afternoon observing the wild ponies on the middle part of Shackleford Banks and were following a sandy beach back to Grit, which was anchored just off the beach.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' wife Julia carrying her kayak to sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks beach
Julia carrying her kayak back to Grit, which is anchored in a narrow channel just off the beach

The tide was high and we came to a tangle of trees that had fallen across the beach, making a barrier between land and water.… Continue reading →

Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Have the Last Word

It was our last day observing the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks and my wife Julia and I went out to see what they were up to.

Julia observing a band of wild ponies from the top of a sand dune
Julia walking on the beach at Shackleford Banks with solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' sailboat Grit anchored offshore
Julia walking back to Grit after visiting the wild ponies. Grit is barely visible anchored in the dark blue water off the beach.
Julia paddling a kayak back to sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks
Julia paddling back to Grit. Grit was our home base for the time we spent… Continue reading →

Wild Horses, Rough Seas and Lessons from Shackleford Banks

This week Julia and I joined Lynne Carnes on her Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast to talk about our time aboard Grit with the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Lynne interviewed us directly from the Grit‘s wood-lined cabin as were anchored 100 feet of a sandbar. You can hear the energy crackling in our voices.

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts and Julia recording the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast aboard sailboat Grit off Shackleford Banks
Click on the player to listen to Julia’s and my interview on the Creative Spirits Unleashed podcast

Thanks, Lynne, for having us on!


Creative Spirits… Continue reading →

How to Provision a Sailboat for Two Weeks: Why the Sausages Worked but the Wine Didn’t

The homemade cured sausages that survived Lucky and Diggity were a hit. The bottle of red wine that had a cork instead of a cap was a bust. Here is a list of the provisions that Julia and I took on our 2-week long trip aboard our sailboat Grit to study the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Here’s what worked, what didn’t and why every sailboat should carry a corkscrew.

Wild horses Shackleford Banks stallion and yearling filly foraging in sand dunes North Carolina
The wild horses of Shackleford Banks. Here, a yearling filly… Continue reading →

Someone to Stand Watch: What the Wild Ponies of Shackleford Banks Still Know

My wife Julia and I had been anchored off Shackleford Banks on our sailboat Grit for nearly a week, studying the wild ponies that call the 8-mile-long uninhabited island home.

Sailboat Grit, solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' 1992 Nimble 24, anchored off Shackleford Banks North Carolina
Our sailboat Grit anchored yesterday off Shackleford Banks. Grit is a 1992 Nimble 24. When she’s not out exploring shoal waters (she only draws 1.5 feet of water) she lives in our hay barn

The goal was a slow, unhurried look at the bands — to really understand their social… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks: Six Nights at Anchor

Good morning from Grit off Shackleford Banks. We’re anchored two miles from the western end of Shackleford Banks where the island meets Beaufort Inlet. Calm weather today, so we’re making our way east to Cape Lookout. The plan is to anchor at the Bight for a few days and watch the wild ponies that call the eastern end home.

The view from Grit’s cockpit. That low rumble you hear is the percolator bubbling away on our stove.

The two… Continue reading →

A Calm Night at Anchor: Shackleford Banks After the Storm

Goodnight from Julia and me, anchored off Shackleford Banks aboard our sailboat Grit. Dead calm tonight. Low tide.

Two nights ago, right here, a little wind crawled into our open cabin doors and turned into a black, 40-knot gale. But not tonight.

Tonight, Julia and I are at peace and we hope you are, too.

Goodnight from Grit.

Bernie

Fairy Lights in a 40-Knot Gale: Anchored Out at Shackleford Banks

That morning, watching the breakers crash on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks, I had dictated this into my phone.

I’m standing on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks and I can feel it in my chest, inside my ribs — the power of this ocean, the thunder of the waves. There’s almost a sense of foreboding. We’re anchored over there in the sound, which is nice and quiet on Grit, but the sound is connected to the ocean. All… Continue reading →

Balloon Releases Kill Sea Turtles: A Warning From Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I found the tangle of three balloons and white ribbons on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks. Half-buried in a sand dune. Mylar. Red metallic sheen dulled from however long they’d been out there.

Tangle of three red Mylar balloons and white ribbons half-buried in a sand dune on Shackleford Banks, North Carolina.
The Mylar balloons

I picked them up, shook off the sand, and dictated a voice memo into my phone.

Grim Short Story

Imagine how excited Cody was when she got these balloons for her birthday. Imagine how excited she was to do… Continue reading →

Small Boat, Wild Island: Life Aboard a Sailboat off Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I are settling into life aboard our yawl Grit off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina. While Julia just posted about our second day on the island, I thought you’d enjoy some photos and videos of how we’re settling onto Grit, our Nimble 24.

Nimble 24 sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. She’s a 1992 Nimble 24. Our goal is to spend the next two weeks observing the wild horses that call this uninhabited eight-mile stretch of sand dunes… Continue reading →

Sailing to Shackleford: The Adventure Begins With a Sinking

The last thing my wife Julia said as I pushed our two kayaks into the water instead of loading them onto the deck of our Nimble 24 sailboat Grit was, “Are you sure you want to tow the kayaks behind the boat?” I assured her that, yes, I did.

Sailboat Grit, a Nimble 24 yawl, heading out of Oriental, North Carolina, with two kayaks trailing behind
Heading out of Oriental on Grit, our 1992 Nimble 24 yawl. She only draws 1′ 4″ of water which makes her the perfect vessel for North Carolina’s Pamlico Sound. Note… Continue reading →