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Top Hat Tennessee

I, Bernie Harberts, did not use generative AI to write or illustrate this article. Spell check and grammar check, yes. AI, no.

Little did I know within a day and a half of leaving laurel digger Richard Gragg’s, I would shiver in my bivy and saunter with a top hat and 2 mules in to Tennessee.

Richard Gragg laurel digger mountain man and arrowhead hunter outside his home in Gragg North Carolina

Richard Gragg: laurel digger, mountain man and arrow head hunter extraordinaire. By laurel digger, I mean he digs mountain laurels and sells them commercially. I spent the night at Richard’s in Gragg, NC. The experience warrants its own post. Thanks for the trout, mule digs and carpenter pencil Richard!

From Richard’s, the mules and I climbed up to the Blue Ridge and spent the night at Jimmy Hughes’ in Linville, NC. Linville is at 3,600 feet, enough to knock spring back a few weeks. The good news was that recent warmish weather was waking Jimmy’s orchard grass and blue grass field.

Bernie Harberts rolled out in bivy bag at night in Jimmy Hughes pasture in Linville North Carolina

The company and festivities were good. It got dark. Instead of pitching my tent, I rolled out my bivy bag, crawled in and gazed up at the Big Dipper. I heard a folding thunk and a heavy sigh beside my head and found that….

Mule Brick lying down sleeping in pasture beside Bernie Harberts bivy bag at night in Linville North Carolina

…Brick had similar notions. She’s working hard on this trip carrying our gear. I’m happy to see her resting up with a full belly of grass.

Deep in the night, I felt chilly. Brick breathed softly beside me. Cracker munched grass at my feet. My toes got cold. Then colder. Then sorta icy. The bivy, ordinarily the texture of soft cloth, felt like hard canvas. In the morning, I discovered I wasn’t going soft. We’d had a stout frost.

Ice frost on Bernie Harberts bivy bag after overnight freeze at 3600 feet in Linville North Carolina

Ice on my bivy bag. My bare feet were just below. No wonder they felt a touch chilly and damp.

Bernie Harberts drying down sleeping bag on fence post while mule Brick soaks up morning sun after frosty night in Linville North Carolina

Cold conditions make for slow starts for man and mule alike. Here Brick soaks up some morning sun while I dry out my sleeping bag. Overnight, the condensation had soaked my old down bag. No problem. Half an hour hung on what used to be a pen for holding wild hogs dried everything up nicely.

By noon were were on the road. I saw a girl with an eye patch stare at me from an old house. I saw a lady with pansies who wouldn’t smile. I ate a hamburger that punched me in the guts after it went down. Or maybe it was the fries.

I passed a broken down Winebaggo that belonged to a guy that lives in the same zip code as me.

Broken down Winnebago on roadside being towed while Bernie Harberts rides mules past at walking pace

Broke down. The wrecker driver told me he would tow this vehicle in one hour the same distance it took the mules and me 5 days to travel.

That afternoon, Cracker, Brick and I arrived in Tennessee. I donned my top hat and snapped the picture.

Bernie Harberts in top hat with mules Brick and Cracker at Tennessee state line Welcome to Tennessee sign

Welcome to Tennessee!

Good night from the Volunteer State.

PS: Big thanks to Jimmy Hughes who put us up in Linville. Also Johnny Ledford who’s hosting us tonight at his beautiful farm outside Roan Mountain, TN.
PPS: Thanks, Trent, for showing Brick your ATV.


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