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Snowed In by Wagon at Lake Mattamuskeet: Thanking Hyde County

Published February 15, 2025

I, Bernie Harberts, did not use generative AI to write or illustrate this article. Spell check and grammar check, yes. AI, no.

(Note: This is the letter I wrote to the folks of Hyde County and Lake Mattamuskeet, North Carolina, thanking them for the generosity they showed mule Polly and me on my latest mule ramble. Lots more pics from our ramble at the bottom of this post. Bernie / RiverEarth.com)

Mule Polly and Bernie Harberts crossing the causeway at Lake Mattamuskeet in a covered wagon — Mule Polly and I heading across the causeway (Lake Mattamuskeet, North Carolina / Tom Carmine photo).

My mule Polly and I, Bernie Harberts, want to thank all the folks of Hyde County and the Lake Mattamuskeet area for their amazing generosity during our recent visit by covered wagon. The plan was to head off in our wagon with a film crew from PBS NC and learn more about Lake Mattamuskeet and Hyde County, from the oral stories about the lake’s history to the birds that overwinter there.

The PBS NC film crew included Morgan Potts, Brooks Bennett, Mike Milstead, Emily Frachtling and Sadie Maddock.

In for an Adventure

A few hours after the film crew and I set off, as Betty Carawan was showing me her Mattamuskeet apple tree, heavy snow started falling. Mule Polly and I made it to the Fairfield United Methodist Church, where, the next morning, she and I woke to half a foot of snow on the ground.
That’s when I knew Polly, the PBS NC film crew, and everyone I met along the way was in for an adventure.

That snowy start turned into an incredible visit to Lake Mattamuskeet and Hyde County. More than just an adventure, I gained a deep understanding of Lake Mattamuskeet, from the Native American legend of its formation to the plans for the Mattamuskeet Lodge renovation. I also experienced the incredible generosity of the people I met, who provided me with everything from a pone bread and a pintail duck to hot water to soak Polly’s grain. There’s no other place in the world like Lake Mattamuskeet and Hyde County.

Thanks

Thanks to the following for providing PBS NC with filming permission, clearances, access, permits and guidance:
-Kendall Smith, Sarah Toner and Madeline Was (Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge)
-Daron Barnes, Nick Shaver, Gator Ridgeway, Steven Brumfield, Brad Stoop, Stephen Pearce and Brian McCrae (NC Wildlife Resources Commission)
-Hyde County Historical Society
-Lewis C. Forrest (for clearance to use photos and quotes from his book Lake Mattamuskeet: New Holland & Hyde County)
-Edward Torres, Debbie Daughtry and Natalie Wayne (Mattamuskeet Lodge Society)

Thanks to everyone who kindly provided Polly and me with overnight accommodations. Not everyone can accommodate a mule and covered wagon, but these folks went out of their way to make it happen.
-Osprey Nest Campground
-Fairfield Methodist Church
-Carawan’s Lakeside Motel
-Mattamuskeet Lodge

Thanks, as well, to Martelle’s Feed House in Engelhard and Harris Steak & Seafood House in Fairfield, where the crew warmed their toes and ate their weight in flounder and popcorn shrimp. Also, the Fairfield Gas Bar & Grill, which became the crew’s go-to spot for lunches.

Finally, I want to thank Kelly Davis for introducing the PBS NC film crew and me to a fascinating group of residents from the Hyde County and Lake Mattamuskeet area. Sorry, Kelly, that Polly tromped on your daffodils.

What’s Next

I’m thrilled with the stories and scenes the PBS NC film crew captured in sight and sound. They endured ice and snow, frozen fingers and late nights on location that will make locals proud and those from away marvel. The footage is currently being edited into an episode that will air on PBS NC and beyond this summer.

Thanks again for your generosity, great stories and all the lovely memories. Oh, and Polly says thank you for all the butter bread, crackers and homegrown apples, which she now knows to call Skeet apples!

More about my Hyde County and Lake Mattamuskeet wagon ramble at my travel blog, RiverEarth.com. More about PBS NC at pbsnc.org.

I look forward to letting you know when the episode airs.

See you up the road!

Bernie Harberts

Some Photos From Our Wagon Ramble

Mule Polly grazing on the shore of Lake Mattamuskeet before setting off on the wagon ramble — Polly grazing on the shore of Lake Mattamuskeet the day before we headed out on our ramble.

Wide view of Lake Mattamuskeet, North Carolina — Lake Mattamuskeet.

Ronald Hudson's covered wagon with the canvas cover removed — The uncovered covered wagon. Though I occasionally refer to it as “my” wagon, it belongs to Ronald Hudson. Thanks, again, Ronald, for letting me use it on this ramble.

PBS NC cameraman Brooks Bennett filming as the covered wagon is prepared — Covering the wagon as Brooks Bennett with PBS NC films (PBS NC photo).

Rolling and filming!

Thomas Midyette gifting mule Polly and Bernie Harberts collards and turnips from his garden — Thomas Midyette gifting mule Polly and me with collards and turnips from his garden. Thanks, Thomas!

A cold, snowy night camped aboard the covered wagon with temperatures in the upper teens — A cold night aboard the wagon. Nights, temps dipped into the upper teens.

Bernie Harberts hunkered down inside the covered wagon for a cold night — Hunkered down in my wagon for the long night ahead.

Snowy morning view from inside the covered wagon's bedroll — The view from my bedroll.

A frosty, cold start to the morning at the covered wagon camp — A cold start to the morning.

Mule Polly wearing two winter blankets to stay warm next to the covered wagon — Polly cozy and warm in her two winter blankets next to the wagon (Tom Carmine photo).

A snow-covered road in front of the Fairfield United Methodist Church where the wagon was snowed in — No day for wagon travel. Polly and I got snowed in for a day at the Methodist church in Fairfield. This is how the road looked like out front of the church. By the next day, conditions had improved enough to proceed.

Local visitors stopping by to see mule Polly and the covered wagon during the snowstorm — Visitors.

Pascal Balance delivering hot chili and cornbread to Bernie Harberts and mule Polly — Pascal Balance delivering hot chili and cornbread to Polly and me. Thanks, Pascal. Yes, I shared the cornbread with Polly!

An ice-covered brake pad on the covered wagon after a night of freezing temperatures — An iced-up brake pad on the wagon.

Mule Polly at the Mattamuskeet Lodge, the final destination of the wagon ramble — Polly at our final destination, the Mattamuskeet Lodge (Tom Carmine photo).

More about:

rambling North Carolina by mule.
the Splinters pile.

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2 Responses to Snowed In by Wagon at Lake Mattamuskeet: Thanking Hyde County

Mike Haggerty on April 10, 2025 at 6:08 pm

Bernie, I enjoyed the opportunity to chat with you and Polly when I met the two of you on the road leading into Mattamuskeet refuge on that cold and snow covered day. Safe travels to you my friend!

Reply
- Bernie on April 10, 2025 at 9:23 pm
  
  Mike! It’s so great to hear from you! I, too, enjoyed our chat. I’m super-excited with how the PBS NC piece is coming out about our ramble. Word has it that it’s called “Swan Song: The Legacy of Lake Mattamuskeet” and will tentatively premier on Thursday, July 3 on PBS NC. I look forward to you riding shotgun with me on that piece so you can find out how the rest of our snowy ramble went. Have a great rest of the week, Mike. Happy Photographing! Bernie
  
  Reply