Find…

Shackleford Banks: Six Nights at Anchor

Good morning from Grit off Shackleford Banks. We’re anchored two miles from the western end of Shackleford Banks where the island meets Beaufort Inlet. Calm weather today, so we’re making our way east to Cape Lookout. The plan is to anchor at the Bight for a few days and watch the wild ponies that call the eastern end home.

The view from Grit’s cockpit. That low rumble you hear is the percolator bubbling away on our stove.

The two… Continue reading →

A Calm Night at Anchor: Shackleford Banks After the Storm

Goodnight from Julia and me, anchored off Shackleford Banks aboard our sailboat Grit. Dead calm tonight. Low tide.

Two nights ago, right here, a little wind crawled into our open cabin doors and turned into a black, 40-knot gale. But not tonight.

Tonight, Julia and I are at peace and we hope you are, too.

Goodnight from Grit.

Bernie

Fairy Lights in a 40-Knot Gale: Anchored Out at Shackleford Banks

That morning, watching the breakers crash on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks, I had dictated this into my phone.

I’m standing on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks and I can feel it in my chest, inside my ribs — the power of this ocean, the thunder of the waves. There’s almost a sense of foreboding. We’re anchored over there in the sound, which is nice and quiet on Grit, but the sound is connected to the ocean. All… Continue reading →

The $1 Horse That Walked 5,000 Miles

Some people save up for years before a big trip. Sea G Rhydr spent one dollar. One buck bought her an outlaw gelding named Jesse James, and that horse carried her 5,000 miles across America. No sponsor. No support vehicle. Just a woman, a cheap horse, and a lot of road.

Seapia image of Sea G Rhydr who rode 5,000 miles across America
Sea G Rhydr

I sat down with Sea on the Travel Grit podcast to hear how that ride actually went — the breakdowns, the kindness of strangers, the moments… Continue reading →

Filipe Masetti Leite Rode a Horse 16,000 Miles. This is What he Learned.

“I’d never ridden more than 3 kilometers.” That’s what author, filmmaker, and Long Rider Filipe Masetti told me, a fellow Long Rider, after riding 16,000 miles across North and South America. That quote will give you hope you can do whatever you’re dreaming of doing.

Long Rider Filipe Masetti Leite, who rode 16,000 miles on horseback from Calgary, Canada to Brazil
Long Rider Filipe Masetti Leite

Update: Filipe and Clara Racing on The Amazing Race Canada

Since this interview, Filipe has taken a break from Long Riding. He and his wife Clara are now racing on… Continue reading →

Balloon Releases Kill Sea Turtles: A Warning From Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I found the tangle of three balloons and white ribbons on the ocean side of Shackleford Banks. Half-buried in a sand dune. Mylar. Red metallic sheen dulled from however long they’d been out there.

Tangle of three red Mylar balloons and white ribbons half-buried in a sand dune on Shackleford Banks, North Carolina.
The Mylar balloons

I picked them up, shook off the sand, and dictated a voice memo into my phone.

Grim Short Story

Imagine how excited Cody was when she got these balloons for her birthday. Imagine how excited she was to do… Continue reading →

Sunrise at Anchor: Shackleford Banks From Aboard Grit

Good Sunday morning from aboard Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. I was lying in my berth this morning, wrapped in my cozy green wool blanket when Julia said, “Wow, look at the sky.” I wriggled out of my snug bedding, stepped onto the dewy deck, and this is what I saw.

First light of dawn over Shackleford Banks, North Carolina, before sunrise
7:06 am: The first light of dawn moments before the sun rose. That’s Shackleford Banks on the right.
Sunrise over Shackleford Banks, North Carolina, March 22, 2026
7:10 am: Sunrise, March 22, 2026
Sun rising above the horizon at Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
7:12 am: We have lift… Continue reading →

Small Boat, Wild Island: Life Aboard a Sailboat off Shackleford Banks

My wife Julia and I are settling into life aboard our yawl Grit off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina. While Julia just posted about our second day on the island, I thought you’d enjoy some photos and videos of how we’re settling onto Grit, our Nimble 24.

Nimble 24 sailboat Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks, North Carolina
Grit anchored off Shackleford Banks. She’s a 1992 Nimble 24. Our goal is to spend the next two weeks observing the wild horses that call this uninhabited eight-mile stretch of sand dunes… Continue reading →

Sailing to Shackleford: The Adventure Begins With a Sinking

The last thing my wife Julia said as I pushed our two kayaks into the water instead of loading them onto the deck of our Nimble 24 sailboat Grit was, “Are you sure you want to tow the kayaks behind the boat?” I assured her that, yes, I did.

Sailboat Grit, a Nimble 24 yawl, heading out of Oriental, North Carolina, with two kayaks trailing behind
Heading out of Oriental on Grit, our 1992 Nimble 24 yawl. She only draws 1′ 4″ of water which makes her the perfect vessel for North Carolina’s Pamlico Sound. Note… Continue reading →

Launching Grit: Storms Delay the Start of Our Shackleford Banks Voyage

Thunder storms, downpours and a tornado. Whew. Today was the day Julia and I were going to launch our sailboat Grit in the Neuse River and head toward Shackleford Banks. Only that didn’t happen on account of the, er, bumpy weather.

Hand-drawn card by artist Laura Turgeon depicting solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts and Julia's homestead life and sailboat Grit, marking Oriental, North Carolina as the launch point for the Shackleford Banks voyage
Artist and friend Laura Turgeon drew this card for us. It perfectly captures the energy of our life and upcoming trip, from rescue border collies Rescue and Diggity taking cosmic leaps to horses, mules and birds all over. Oh,… Continue reading →

Hugo Vihlen: Crossing the Atlantic on a 5′ 4″ Sailboat

At 62, Hugo Vihlen sailed across the Atlantic in his sailboat Father’s Day. Father’s Day was just 5 feet 4 inches long. He survived a hurricane at sea, was reduced to eating quarter rations, and lost a kidney because he ran low on water. Thirty years and countless challengers later, his record still stands.

I sat down with Hugo a while back to hear his incredible story. Click on the video to hear how the 5′ 8″ Hugo… Continue reading →

Shackleford Banks: Sailing to the Island of the Wild Horses

As promised last week in my get-the-boat-ready-to-float list, here’s a hand-drawn (as opposed to AI-drawn) map of where Julia and I are heading for our mid-March trip. We’re sailing to Shackleford Banks with our sailboat Grit to observe the wild horses that live there.

Hand-drawn color pencil map of Shackleford Banks by Bernie Harberts
Shackleford Banks (Color pencil on printer paper / by Bernie Harberts)

About the Map

Are you sick of looking at AI-generated art? Tired of seeing AI-generated videos of AI-people chipping AI-horses and baby AI-generated eagles… Continue reading →

The Grit List: A Broken Axle Before Shackleford Banks Voyage

My wife Julia and I plan to sail our Nimble 24 sailboat Grit to Shackleford Banks, North Carolina, this March to study the wild horses that live there. But before we go, I need to do some maintenance on Grit. She is, after all, 35 years old and I don’t want a repeat performance of my highway break down.

How Grit Ended Up on the Side of I-77

Solo circumnavigator Bernie Harberts' Nimble 24 yawl Grit parked in the backyard with a broken trailer axle, North Carolina
Grit, as parked in our backyard last fall, days before… Continue reading →

Long Rider Gin Szagola: First Solo Horse Ride Across Southern Australia

A little over a year ago, Julia and I visited with our friend the Long Rider Gin Szagola. She was planning to fly to Australia, gentle a wild brumby (which is what they call a mustang in Australia) and ride it across southern Australia.

Last week, Gin became the first person to ride a single horse across southern Australia without a chase crew or support vehicle. It was just her and Fable, the wild Snowy Mountain Brumby she trained herself.… Continue reading →